The missing middle

I was discussing a bit of everything with my friend Cynthia the other night, over a beer at Toto's Garage. Among other profound additions to human philosophical thought, we agreed that India suffers from a "missing middle" phenomenon. Yes, we decided, India lacks a respectable, middle-of-the-road, beer-drinker's bar scene.

Mumbai is full of two kinds of drinking venues. At one end are the super-elite clubs and lounges. Picture Aer: thirty dollar martinis served on the rooftop of the Four Seasons hotel (see photo). Some cookie-cutter DJ with an outsized ego is playing house music and re-mixed Akon. The clientèle are largely the children of Bombay's business tycoons – they grew up and went to the same elite private schools together, studied in the US or UK, and came home to help run the family business. (Aside: this showy privilege may be the most tangible way to directly observe the growth of India's economy.)

At the other end are the modest dabbas: low-end, open-air, music-less restaurants – a few of which have gone through the trouble of obtaining a liquor license. A few nights ago I dined at Vijay Punjab, a personal favourite. All around me tables filled up with groups of middle class men, unwinding with stories and laughs after the work week. The drinks, priced with almost no mark-up, are mixed at the table – the server brings the liquor bottle and mixers to the table. Most Indians take whisky.

The owner of Toto's Garage has clearly noticed this lack of middle ground. Toto's is a zealous attempt to create a lively yet plebeian environment. With the dilapidated VW Beetle perched over the bar, the wait-staff decked out in orange mechanics' jump-suits, and more neon than Vegas, this bar nonetheless leaves me slightly offended by how conspicuously effortful it all feels. 

Cynthia, who is a Brit, sympathized as I lamented the lack of good watering holes; the dive bars, pubs and sports bars that are the bread and butter of the American and British drinking scenes. (The lack of quality beer is a gripe I'll leave for another time.)